Share Photos Online

Bringing family and friends right into the action is almost instantaneous. Your online photo albums can be viewed by family and friends form anywhere in the world as long as they have a PC and internet access they can browse your own family albums and share all the experiences. Photo albums are a great way to express your family history, document a new birth in the family, share the joyous occasion of a family wedding and in general, document those fleeting moments that might very well just fade away with time.

If you happen to have a whole bunch of family photos that are not in digital format but would like to place them in your online photo album then a little more work is needed to place them online. Firstly you will have to have access to a scanner. Scan in the image and then you will be able to upload them to you photo album script. This probably may seem like a daunting task but it is actually quite an easy process. If you are not technically inclined or cannot afford the time to follow this route, then any photo developing business will gladly transfer your Kodak moments to digital format for you, for a small fee of course, but well worth it.

Creating an online photo album is not just restricted to documenting your family life. It can also be used to for business purposes, for example, if you are a professional photographer use this awesome facility to bring all your pictures to the world, document a road trip or even create a gallery of properties for sale if you happen to be an estate agent. Most online photo album scripts will have a shopping cart facility whereby you can sell your prints to the general public turning your gallery into a cash generating entity.

Whether you wish to share your photo album with the world or just use it for friends and family viewing it is a great way to share those prized snapshots. Anyone can start their own online photo album, in most cases no special software is needed, making it easy for even the person with the most basic of computing knowledge to start and maintain their gallery. The gallery is mobile – in other words, if you are holiday or on that special excursion it can be updated immediately for instant near real time viewing enjoyment. Share the moments – share the magic of your very own online photo album.

Controlling Depth of Field

Depth of field refers to the distance (depth) from the focus point that a photo will be sharp, while the rest becomes blurry. A large, or wide, depth of field will result in much of the photo in focus. A small, or narrow, depth of field will result in much more of the photo out of focus. Neither approach is better or right, and which depth of field to use is up to you, the photographer. You may have different reasons for choosing a certain depth of field including artistic effects, bringing attention to a subject, or crisp representation of a scene.

There are four main factors that control depth of field: 1) lens aperture, 2) lens focal length, 3) subject distance, and 4) film or sensor size. Your film or sensor is pretty well set, so you won’t have much luck changing that. Your focal length and distance to the subject are usually determined by your choice of composition. So the lens aperture is your primary control over depth of field.

Before I get to the tips, let’s get a few things straight:

  • BIG APERTURE = SMALL F/NUMBER = SMALL DEPTH OF FIELD
  • SMALL APERTURE = BIG F/NUMBER = BIG DEPTH OF FIELD
  1. Aperture Control – Large apertures (small f/numbers) cause a narrow DOF, while small apertures (large f/numbers) cause a wide DOF. To bring attention to a subject by blurring a background, shoot with f/numbers like f/2.8, f/4, or f/5.6 – this is called “selective focus”. To bring the whole scene into focus, shoot with f/numbers like f/16 or f/22.
  2. Avoid Excess DOF – If you want to bring an entire scene into focus and keep it sharp, you’ll use a small aperture. But be careful not to go too small. Lens sharpness will start to deteriorate at the smallest apertures. Use enough to get what you want, and no more. You may have to experiment a bit to get a feel for how your camera and lenses work at different apertures.
  3. Focus Point – The DOF extends behind and in front of the point of focus. It usually extends further behind than in front, though. So keep this in mind when choosing your focus point; you’ll want to focus about 1/3 of the way into the scene rather than 1/2 way.
  4. Use a Tripod – As you stop down the lens for greater depth of field, you’re also letting less light into the camera. To compensate for this and maintain correct exposure, you’ll need to either use longer shutter speeds or a higher ISO. The ISO can only be increased so much before noise artifacts will become an issue, so you’ll most likely want to lengthen your shutter speed. If you’re shutter speed is too long, you’ll need a tripod (or some type of stabilization) to deal with this.
  5. DOF Preview – When looking through the viewfinder of an SLR camera, you’re seeing the world through the lens. You can easily see your resulting composition and point of focus, but the depth of field you’re witnessing is a little false. You’re seeing the resulting depth of field for the largest aperture of the lens, no matter what f/number you’ve chosen. Most newer dSLR cameras have a feature called DOF preview that allows you to stop the lens down to the chosen aperture so you can see the true depth of field. What you’re seeing usually gets darker because you’re letting less light through, but you should still be able to see the scene (unless the aperture is very small and it’s dim out).
  6. Focal Length – As I mentioned, your focal length is usually determined by your choice of composition, but you should know how it affects your depth of field. Longer focal lengths (200mm) have less depth of field than shorter focal lengths (35mm). Just keep this in mind when you’re trying to achieve a certain depth of field — you may need to alter your focal length in addition to your aperture.