Displaying Photography on Web

Image Scan Quality

Resolution is the image quality measured in terms of how many pixels make up your image. It is commonly referred to as “ppi”; (pixels per inch). One of the common dilemmas when scanning photo transparencies to digitize them for use on a person’s website is how detailed of a scan do you need to provide your webmaster to post your imagery online. I’m going to sidestep the issue of image copyright concerns for the time being as I’ll cover that in an upcoming article on its own. However, because your images are to be viewed on a screen, all web graphics should be no larger than 72 ppi and thus anything higher has no improved effect, and only creates longer download times. This will also reduce what an individual could do with the image file if they had alternate motives.

Image Dimension Size

Pixels are the unit of measurement for the screen and most webmasters design a website to fit one of the standard display sizes. Based on statistics that can be looked up on the internet, we have found that most people today have their monitor’s set to display at least 1024 x 768, if not larger.

Why this is important, is that if your scan dimensions in Adobe Photoshop say that the image is 8.5 inches by 11 inches, saving the file at those dimension will not allow a user at 1024 pixels by 768 pixels to see the image in its full presentation without scrolling both vertically and horizontally. Adobe Photoshop provides the ability to resize the image to a size that will fit within your website design. As an added bonus, it will also reduce the download size of the image that the view of the image will experience without losing image quality. This is something that you will need to work with your webmaster to come up the proper tradeoff between file size and the presentation size of the image in your portfolio. It is important to realize that not everyone has broadband connections, so thumbnails are very much appreciated by those who use dialup connections. One thing I would recommend is to come up with standard dimension sizes for your horizontal, vertical, panoramic and thumbnails and stick to them as it will make your life, and your webmaster’s much easier.

There are two types of color that can be used in Web graphics. The colors can be associated with the Web graphic file formats we just mentioned: GIF and JPG.

GIF

GIF is short for Graphics Interchange Format and consists of the 216 common colors found on all computer monitors and within all Web browsers. These common colors reside in a Web palette and its advantages are that it is supported by practically all web browsers, can include transparent backgrounds, supports interlacing (providing a low-resolution preview of the graphic to the viewer while it downloads), and can be used as an image map (allowing the viewer to click on the graphic as they would a regular link to another site).

JPEG

JPEG is short for Joint Photographers Experts Group and is superior in rendering color and detail found in photographs or graphics using blends, gradients, and other tonal variations. JPEG files use red, green, and blue (RGB) for graphical color. The strength of these colors is set in from zero to 255 with zero being the least intensity and 255 being the highest intensity. When red, green and blue are combined at zero intensity the result is black. At full strength, high intensity, where the values are set at 255, 255, 255, the result is pure white. As a photographer, it is important to utilize photographs as much as we can within your Web portfolio to present your work in the best possible quality so that it captures the true spirit of the subject work.

Learn Photoshop With Movie Tutorials

To harness the potential of Photoshop in your image editing, consider making use of movie tutorials. This type of tutorial allows you to see how a given feature is used or effect is accomplished in real time, as the action is performed. You can even stop the video to go try it out in your own copy of Photoshop. Because of the ability to stop, rewind, and replay scenes in video tutorials, you can use them as a constant reference. If you do not have time or money to attend classes and seminars, video tutorials can be a great help in learning to use your copy of Photoshop.

Some video tutorials are available for free, others require some payment for the effort that has gone into them. These latter type are more likely to be professional. The saying goes that you get what you pay for, and this is still the case with Photoshop tutorials. However, even the free type of tutorial can be useful. They are readily available online, and can be used to find out if you like the video style of tutorial before you buy more professional video instructions. These tutorials may be offered in one of two ways. They can either be purchased individually, or a user who is learning Photoshop may purchase a membership in a site that offers tutorials.

Membership in a video tutorial site brings you the widest variety of professional video tutorials to help you learn how to maximize the features in your copy of Photoshop. Some topics which may be covered are how to remove red eye from your photos, cropping your photo to a more attractive size, and removing unwanted objects from the photograph. Video tutorials can also be found to help you remove damage and make recent photographs appear to be antique. Video tutorials allow you to learn how to use the many features of Photoshop easily. Compared to bulky, confusing manuals, these short movies are the best choice when it comes to learning this versatile program.

Find Cheap Digital Cameras

A good starting off point in the search for cheap digital cameras is the Internet where there are many outstanding deals to be had and where there is a lot of choice as well that includes big names such as Kodak, Canon, Sony as well as Toshiba that each have a broad range of cheap digital cameras on offer. And, times have changed because now there is no need to shop around as much to locate cheap digital cameras because most of these cameras are pretty similar and all you need to do is pick the brand name that you like the most and follow a few simple steps to get the best from your purchase.

There are certain sites where these cheap digital cameras have been compared and you may want to visit sites such as techbargain and also cnet.com where you can find many cheap digital cameras that are being sold in hundreds of online stores, and all you need to do is glance at the different products and check them out feature for feature and price for price.

If you visit eBay, there is sure to be a bargain buy available, and there will also be virtually every digital camera make and model available, though some of the things you buy on eBay including cheap digital cameras can often are a bit of a gamble, so it means that you makes sure to buy only from reputable sellers who have feedback scores that are excellent.

If you want to learn some amazing digital photography secrets then visit [http://digitalcameras.09cn.com] for more information.

Another source for cheap digital cameras is to visit digital camera forums that specialize in such products where you will be sure to find information from users of digital cameras who will provide valuable insights into the relative merits and demerits of digital cameras, and where you can also find cheap digital cameras through some of the discount promotional offers advertised there.

Digital Aerial Map

It is adding a great extra dimension to the hobby with an old camera but with today’s modern digital cameras that are running on low costs and with no need to develop the film. If you are doing a lot of photography then this will actually add up quite rapidly and you will be able to either save a lot of dollars or just be able to take a lot more pictures.

The most obvious way to control a digital camera is to use a servo with a camera pressing on the shutter button. You might have seen some really good photos taken with a Canon Digital Ixus camera using this exact method as this is a method that is commonly used around the world.

However this might not appeal to you as it interferes with the normal use of the camera. In this age of fly by wire it seems a bit agricultural to do it this way. But every man does it his own way and I am not to tell you how to take your pictures.

Now you might think: Is there no way to do this in an automatically and electronically way? To do that you would be able to completely remove the need for a servo, and it would offer you a great deal of simplicity and a superior flexibility. This could, as an example, be done with an interval timer function. At the time of writing this I couldn’t seem to find any commercial interfaces that would allow you to do this and you would therefore have to build you own.

A suggest for the solution is that you should choose would be to base it on a commercially available Stamp micro-controller. A brief description of what I mean can be explained by this:

The algebra is a decent size (3 meter), good handling no-nonsense airplane, and a perfect choice as a camera platform. A Multiplex mc3030 transmitter would be a great choice with controlling ailerons, spoiler, rudder, elevator and then of course the camera.

When you do the flight tests, a cardboard dummy can be used in the place of the camera, so you can determine the effect of a large bluff object sticking above the wing. I suggest that you do at least three test flights with the dummy mounted in different positions before the actual flight.

A camera falling to earth from a plane is not a pretty sight so please make sure to fasten it the best you can when you are doing your digital aerial maps photography.

Take Better Night Photos

If you’re having difficulty understanding metering, then you’ll probably want to take up night photography as this is one of the types of photography where you don’t have to worry about your metering. You can forget about honeycomb, matrix, spot and multi-metering systems as these will not be utilized in night photography.

The best metering system that you’ll ever need for night photography is your eye coupled with some experience on your belt. Since we are no longer dealing with daylight, a metered reading is only as useful as a “starting point”.

There are so few factors in night photography that can make the metering system unreliable. It is because whenever you read meter systems, they work on the premise that the area being read has equal amounts of light and dark areas. If you’re metering with that premise then the system will not work 100%.

What you want to do is to simply start out with an aperture of 2 seconds with an aperture of around f/5.6 if your depth of field is not a priority. Should you need a longer exposure, just try the shutter. If your camera is able to go up to 30 seconds of open shutter time, you should remember to use the self-timer to fire the camera instead of pushing it down yourself.

This will eliminate any type of camera shake that will come out of pressing down on the shutter button and taking your hand off it to allow the mirror to capture light for 30 seconds. In cases like this, it is highly recommended to use some sort of cable release.

So whenever you are exposing a photograph during the night, you should always remember to use the Bulb setting if and when you have it, mount your camera on a sturdy tripod to minimize any type of camera shake and finally use a wired or remote trigger in order to take away any chances of you blurring the shot with the act of taking your finger away from the shutter button. Aside from these advices, you are on your way to capturing the best possible night shot.

Lighting for Video

Light comes in two basic categories:

  • Diffused
  • Direct

Direct light is what you have on a sunny day.

Diffused light is what you get on a cloudy day. The clouds act as a diffusion filter.

Think back to elementary school science. Light rays do not bend. If you point a flashlight, the light won’t bend around the corner of the building, you’d have to move the flashlight to see the side of the building.

Direct light (sunny day) creates deep, harsh shadows that have distinct edges.

Diffused light, (cloudy day) can be very bright but completely shadow less.

Generally speaking, diffused light is best for simple video production.

The easiest way to transform a direct light into a diffused one is by bouncing it off the ceiling or wall. Do this by simply placing the light near the wall (or ceiling) and pointing it toward the wall, not your subject. The light bounces off the wall and is diffused nicely. (Don’t get it too close though, I once burned a guy’s wallpaper cuz a 500 watt tungsten lamp get purdy hot. Oops.)

Bouncing a light is the quick, cheap, no hassle way to do it. However, if you want to spend money and achieve better effects, professional photographic lighting uses tools like soft boxes, umbrellas, cloths and filters to produce diffused light.

The only drawback to diffusing your light is that as you diffuse, you lose intensity. Diffusion is so desired though most people accept that trade-off. Have you ever wondered why they bother to paint the inside of most light bulbs white? The answer is that the white paint diffuses the light and makes it more pleasing to the eye. On top of that, people usually add a lamp shade for even more diffusion.

Quality lighting is key to quality video production. That doesn’t mean it needs to be difficult.

Urban Landscapes

When you have decided to give urban landscapes photography a try, you have to bring along a wide-angle lens, telephoto (zoom) lens, polarizing filer and a tripod. You need a wide-angle lens to capture wide shots while you need a zoom lens to capture distant details, for example, the cross of a cathedral. The polarizing filter will help to darken blue sky and remove reflections from non-metallic surfaces. Needless to day, the tripod is for low shutter speed usage.

One of the challenges when doing urban landscapes photography during weekdays and working hours are the people and traffic. These two elements will inevitably be part of your foreground images. To avoid this, you can do it on weekends. However, this may not be possible all the time if you have other commitment.

Since we cannot get rid of these two elements (people and traffic), we might as well use them as part of our composition. As recommended by Practical Photography (Apr 07 edition, page 36 by Chris Rutter), one of the recommended approach is to blur these moving objects. For slower moving objects such as the pedestrians, you can use a shutter speed of around 1/8 sec to 1 second. Whereas for the fast moving traffics, you can try using shutter speeds of 1/8 sec to 1/30 sec.

When you are ready to shot a building against a blue sky, remember to put on your polarizer filer. This is extremely useful when the building is glass fronted. With the filter, it will help to increase the saturation of blue skies as well as reducing the glare and reflections from glass fronted building.

Another viewpoint you can consider is to shot upwards. This is a different composition and you can get rid of the people and traffic in you foreground. You will get some great shots from this viewpoint as well. You can see some upward viewpoint shots here [http://www.internetbizcenter.com/photography/index12.htm].

If you have been doing nature landscape photography, you might want to consider doing some urban landscapes photography. As you walk along the road everyday, try to look out for something that you can create a stunting and memorial picture. You do not need to go out far and get it. It is how you compose it.

About Digital Photo Revolution

Digital photos are liked the most these days as they have reduced the loads of paper copies. Because of the mini-computed devices, it has become easier to carry and take digital forms of photos. Digital camera has thus surpassed the sale of film cameras. These cameras are updated version and include features to store and record images and pictures on a memory chip, of which the film cameras are deprived. There are several forms of them in the market ranging from mobile phones and PDAs to Hubble Space Telescope.

These, if deleted by chance or by anything can be recovered, restored, and maintained with use of software like Data doctor. The software can recover all missing and deleted photos from the hard drive or any USB media. It also fetches back pictures from disk partition and storage media. In digital photography, the number of pixels matter as they increase the quality of a photograph or an image.

High resolution gives a hint of the amount of detail captured, but it is just other factor to determine the quality. The Sigma SD14 camera functions on the Foveon technology. It is different from all other digicams. It is a 14 megapixel camera. Increase in resolution may help in photo quality. Also, the deleted data can be retrieved.

Mainly digital cameras are manufactured to operate as auto-run units so that even a new user could use them without any difficulty. There are simple zooming options and flashes which can not be changed.

One has to be skilled at taking photos without any effort. You can capture an image in a panorama. You should have battery packs ready in outdoor photography mission along with tripods. It will make your photography mission simple and easy. Just rely on simple technique and don’t try to experiment to get stunning pictures with your camera. The photos or images are ever fresh and do not erode like hard photos do. And, with the introduction of new technology, the digital photos are on the way to more improvement in terms of quality.

Timing & Expression

Timing

Not just commercial photographer, timing is an important factor for all kinds of photographers dealing in different branches of photography. More the conditions get volatile; more is the importance of timing. It is one of the first things that a photographer ought to develop and get efficient at. Good sense of timing comes with lots of practice and experience. Timing is particularly required in outdoor shoots, when weather conditions are not stable, and with unprofessional subjects like babies and animals.

Expressions

This is yet another tough job, but very critical. This holds true more for the commercial photographer than for photographers working for any other offshoot of photography. Why? Because, in commercial photography, one shoots for advertising purposes, where there is a target audience and they have to be convinced with action and expressions. Therefore, it is imperative on the commercial photographer to bring out the right expressions in his subject.

There are two kinds of models that a commercial photographer usually works with. One is the professional model (that can be both kids as well as adults). And the second is the not so professional ones or those who are too incompetent to understand the whole idea of professionalism, like animals and babies. In the first case, the commercial photographer does not really face that much of a difficulty as the professional models usually bring forth the required emotions and expressions with little effort. However, it is in the second case where a commercial photographer needs lots of good sense of timing and the expertise to help the subject emote in the desired way.

Adding Texture

When you control the texture of your photos you invite the viewer deeper and deeper into your world.
In other words . . . you share your feelings. Admit it; we’ve all seen those pictures of starving children from Africa, and they tug at your heart, don’t they? Of course they do, and that wasn’t by accident. Whether it’s the fluffiness of a newborn kitten or the glistening of a rattlesnake’s skin in the desert
heat, you can almost “feel” the emotion rising within you. The bottom line is . . . these images all provoked an emotional response.

Photographs are most often printed on a flat, boring, non responsive piece of paper. Keep in mind
that a snap shot is a two-dimensional piece of paper. A photograph is a three-dimensional work of
art. What is it that makes the difference? Often it ends up being contrast. The difference between
big and little, or the difference between smooth and rough give us the viewer something to relate
to. If you can’t relate to an image, no matter what the subject matter, it is very unlikely to get you
to have an emotional response. If you shoot a picture of a rodeo from the very top seat of a huge grandstand, will it have the same impact as the one shot by the clown looking at the bull
face to face??

Obviously, contrast can take on many forms: color, size, distance, or texture. But texture helps to
add depth. It’s not the only tool in your tool box that can do this, but it one of things specifically
designed for the job. It’s like trying to open a can with a screwdriver and a rock verses using a
can opener. Can you do it with a screwdriver? Yes. Was it as easy? No. Was it as enjoyable?
Probably not. Many photo classes are taught that never even mention the word texture. Can you
take a picture without texture? Probably not. . . but even if you could, would you really want to?

Let’s say you take a young female model and shoot her against a plain sky. Nice looking girl, nice expression, but . . . now take the same model and shoot her against an old knotted tree or a jagged climbing rock. You have more to look at, more to compare to. Basically, you have more reason to remember the second shot than the first. It stands out because you added texture.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m a big fan of simplifying the background whenever possible. But there are
times when many photographers take this common practice to extremes. Since all subjects already
have some type of texture, why not use that to your advantage? Even in nature shots; you can
shoot water as smooth as glass or as violent as a volcano.

Sure, some textures can actually distract from your main subject, but . . . don’t forget some can
greatly enhance it as well. If you want someone to reach out and touch your photographs, first you
have to touch their hearts. You have to give them a new experience, a new perspective. Using texture
to your advantage gives a whole new dimension to your work that people will want to explore.